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How do I join the SMSA and how much does it cost?
Can visitors fly from the sites?
When am I likely to meet other SMSA members flying?
Can the SMSA help get beginners flying?
What models and advice would you recommend for a beginner?
What radio equipment
would you recommend for a beginner?
How do I join the SMSA and how much does it cost?
Membership for the SMSA is only £5. We are always welcoming new members who fly safely. To join simply e-mail us using form on the contact page and we can send you a membership form. Please remember to tell us if you are a novice or an expert!
Yes! As with most flying sites in the UK you will require to be a member of the BMFA, which you can join at the same time as joining the SMSA. (More info on the BMFA can be found on their website www.BMFA.org)
Can visitors fly from the sites?
Sorry visitors are not permitted tp fly at the Burton Dassett Hills and Sunrising Hills However if you would like to fly from our sites then please contact the secretary.
When am I likely to meet other SMSA members flying?
There are usually members flying most days (afternoons) if the conditions are right. However the busiest times are usually Sundays (am). Most of our events are also held on a Sunday.
Can the SMSA help get beginners flying?
If you are a beginner, then we try and get you in contact with an experienced member who will be able to meet you on the slopes, trim out your model and help get you off the ground.
Even if you don't feel that you need tuition it is always wise to get someone to trim out your new model so you will be able to fly it better and learn quicker. So just keep in touch and always ASK!
What models and advice would you recommend for a beginner?
There are always lots of different opinions here depending on who you talk to. So based on all the advice out there and considering a first timers budget here is our advice.
Before the indestructible foamie was invented we all used to learn on a basic crunchie rudder-elevator model, and then progress onto something more aerobatic. The advantages with this was that you learnt a bit about your planes while building and most importantly also learnt how to find thermals, lift and use the slope effectively. However the big disadvantage with this way of learning is that you could only afford one accident and then it was time to go home and get rebuilding.
Now days most people go straight for an aileron foamie indestructible model and learn by having as many mistakes as possible, without having to rebuild anything. A real plus advantage of the "crunchie". However, the disadvantage is that you tend to learn very little about the mechanics of flying and using thermal lift effectively. Also you end up being foamie-minded, living in fear of flying anything which wont bounce, and in danger of never progressing.
The perfect solution would be to buy two models; a foamie to get you started and learn your left from your right and one for light conditions which can catch thermals.
When it comes to choosing the best foamie the list appears endless. They are all pretty good value for money, and have really progressed a long way from the early foamy designs like the "Bullet" (Avoid!,flew like "Mr brick" and his mate "Concrete").
The "Zagi" flying wing has always been very popular and there are various different versions out there which will cope with all sorts of conditions. However, I have found these wings tend to be a long way from a conventional model and can be difficult to trim, but saying that they are very well priced.
A
better option is to aim for something closer to conventional shape such
as the "Cobra"
from SAS.
Soar Ahead Sailplanes do a whole range of foamies
all of which give great performance. (My first foamie was a "Wild
Thing", which is still flying after about 5 years of serious abuse).
The great thing about the "Cobra" is that it can be trimmed
for beginners to fly tamely or advance aerobatics, which means it will
live in your hanger for some years. It can also deal with a large range
of conditions. Also, as mentioned before, the "Wild
Thing" by SAS is also a great model to start with.
If you then want something for lighter conditions they I would recommend looking around your local store for a balsa kit (around about 1.8m span) the "Gentle Lady" used to be an old favorite but is now getting difficult to source.
The West wings Orion may be a good kit for thermal soaring, but I havnt seen one flying. Here is a review of this kit.
Alternatively, try something smaller such as the "Irvine Pixie"
for about £45 or the "Nano
Floh" from "Go-Gliding"
Preferably the rud-el version for a beginner. 
(available
as R-El or Aileron - El) this is excellent value for money at only £40.
Both the pixie and the Nano Floh are small but very tough little models.
Nano
Floh review
When you do decide on which model choose a good day (about 15mph stiff breeze for a foamie) and get someone to help you trim the model out for its first flight. A good majority of first first models tend to be badly trimmed out, with common mistakes being too much movement on the Ailerons and Elevator and an incorrect C of G.
By getting your model trimmed properly to fly straight you will be able to learn to fly far far quicker then if the model is flying badly.
Finally, when you do buy your first foamie it will probably come out of the box looking like a set of wings and a square brick shaped fus. Get out a knife (and sandpaper) and don't be afraid to do some serious shaping and trimming to the fus so that it looks a bit more aerodynamic. You will find that you can improve the performance of the model and its looks with very little loss in toughness.
What radio equipment would you recommend for a beginner?
Spend as much as you can afford!
Most people choose to buy a cheap first transmitter (Tx) and then upgrade if they get a second model. This will get you started but work out to be bad econmy in the long run. You can buy a cheap 2 channel tranny for about £40. However you are almost certainly going to "grow out" of this tranny very soon. (If you do buy a cheap TX make sure that it has dual rates and a servo reverse function.)
If you aim for something a little more sophisticated then it will initially
cost you more but it will last you probably several years before you
feel like you need to replace it. Not only will it be better economy
but it will also help you fly and trim your models better.
Futaba now produce the "Futaba 6EXA" which can handle
up to 6 model memories and can be programmed to deal with almost any
model that you are likely to fly from the slope. This is very reasonably
priced (Inwoods
Models have a TX only package for around £50) (or
the price of 2 cheap non-computer trannies! - do the maths yourself!).
Its main disadvantage however is that it will only ever be able to deal
with 6 models, although by the time anyone has more than 6 models in
their hanger then its probably time to upgrade the TX in any case! (for
gliders it does not have full crow or butterfly brakes,but it is still
very reasonable for a beginner).
Also if you are buying a Tx it is usually better economy to buy the Tx only instead of the Tx plus Rx, servos etc etc deal. These "complete" sets look good economy but most models these days will require micro or mini Rx and servos, making the standard sized radio gear which comes with the set redundant. So buy your Tx to suit you (and your budget) and your radio gear to suit your model! Also use the frequency list on this website to make sure you buy the right xtals.
Finally, the most popular make of transmitter currently in use by SMSA members is probably "Futaba". If you use a Futaba tranny and need help programming your computer radio then you are more likely to find someone who can help out.
